Jesse,

I think that you'll find that most smiths will use a distal taper on their blades but there are always exceptions. One example might be a competition cutter where they want extra weight on the front of the blade for chopping. This is done by varying the thickness of the spine and not the cutting edge. You want the geometry of the cutting edge to be consistent.

I don't understand the logic of leaving the tip extra thick. If you're worried about the toughness of the tip then you can always soften the back or spine there. Many will vary the geometry of a blade slightly if it is a knife with a specific function that calls for something different than normal but for an all around user, I stay with a distal taper.

I'm with Gary. I prefer a consistent thickness for most knives.

If piercing is the primary function of the blade, the design would change with the change in purpose. A dagger is a good example of this change. You wont be cutting rope or slicing cheese with a dagger. It's a piercing tool. The design of the knife indicates it's purpose. So a diamond cross section that has a sturdy tip cross section would be in order.

When looking at photographs of knives, I can sometimes see that the tip is left thicker than I like to see with an apparent swell in the geomtery. These are obviously not daggers or throwing knives so, in my opinion, the thick tip is out of place.

As a rule, if the tip needs to be left thick, then the entire length of the edge should be thick. But this is because the purpose of the knife has dictated that.

I think this has more to do with the fact that the tip will get hot faster then the rest of the blade and can be over heated before you quench. however having your forge set on the lowest setting (that can still run when it comes to gas forges) to turning down the heat to as low as it can go and still run properly is better the running it at forging temperature. this is something I just figured out yesterday. but to be fare to myself i am figuring it out as I go along as im going down the self tought route. so its lot of how too books,youtube video's and well i admit it im a huge fan of Forged in fire, thin its time to play monkey see, monkey do. I would post a link for a good regulator for a gas forge, but i want to keep that secret as I cant get it form myself till tomorrow and last time i posted a helpful link before i bought it, the site ran out. So forgive me but I am going to be a bit selfish. But I'll post it tomorrow after i got the thing ordered.

Leaving a blade's tip isn't unusual during the forging process, but I personally feel it's counter productive in the finished product. Over the years I've developed the philosophy that "I can always take it off later, but I can never put it back" meaning that I can always grind away excess material when the time it right, but if I thin something down too thin, too soon, I've created more problems then I've solved.

Again, just a personal opinion, but I don't believe there is any good reason to leave the tip of a blade overly thick in the finished product....there are just too many other solutions available.

"I think this has more to do with the fact that the tip will get hot faster then the rest of the blade and can be over heated before you quench. however having your forge set on the lowest setting (that can still run when it comes to gas forges) to turning down the heat to as low as it can go and still run properly is better the running it at forging temperature. "

Kevin,

If you are worried about getting your blade too hot before quenching, there is a trick I learned at the Introduction to bladesmithing Class. Get a 2 inch wide round or square pipe that is longer than your forge. Put it inside the forge after you have it started so that it gets red hot. You will then put your knife inside the pipe. Heat your steel till it is non magnetic and then quench. The pipe acts as an oven and keep the direct heat off the blade so it heats evenly protecting the tip and edge.

Scott

Thanks for the responses guys. I figured it was probably a bad idea. I had a blade that was just a tad thicker at the tip, so I figured I'd try it once, since I know I saw someone recommend it on youtube or one of the forums or somewhere. And yes, it was the finished product they were talking about not just while they forged. But, I did not like the results at all and just figured I'd check with the experts to make sure I was thinking straight and wasn't missing something.

Thanks again!

|quoted:

"I think this has more to do with the fact that the tip will get hot faster then the rest of the blade and can be over heated before you quench. however having your forge set on the lowest setting (that can still run when it comes to gas forges) to turning down the heat to as low as it can go and still run properly is better the running it at forging temperature. "

Kevin,

If you are worried about getting your blade too hot before quenching, there is a trick I learned at the Introduction to bladesmithing Class. Get a 2 inch wide round or square pipe that is longer than your forge. Put it inside the forge after you have it started so that it gets red hot. You will then put your knife inside the pipe. Heat your steel till it is non magnetic and then quench. The pipe acts as an oven and keep the direct heat off the blade so it heats evenly protecting the tip and edge.

Scott

I dont really worrie about the tip. just giving my 2 cents in. that regulator https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072FVMTG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1