I done up some 52100/ Stainless Steel. The pattern wasnt a sucess but the heat treat was.
I took about 1 1/2" off the tip od this deer antler. I took around 50 pretty violent whacks with this thin edge. Resulting in no edge damage and still almost razor sharp. It will cut hair but not as easy as before I started. Thanks for the help on heat treat questions. I found my new steel. I wish I would of left this stock a little thicker for hunting knives. I tried to grind this to thin.
Just remember what you did to get this done and adjust accordingly to dial it in.
It is very challenging to get your components sized and forged and ground to end up with the visual effect you like.
Great job on what you have.
Karl B. Andersen
Journeyman Smith
|quoted:
Just remember what you did to get this done and adjust accordingly to dial it in.
It is very challenging to get your components sized and forged and ground to end up with the visual effect you like.
Great job on what you have.
Thanks Karl. I actually found an old bladeforums post you did about S/S San Mai years ago. And kind of went from there. My starting billet was 3/4" 52100 and the SS was 1/2" inch on each side I forged it down to .030. I used your recipe but doubled it. It would have come out perfect for hunters and bowies. Heres what my billet looked like. I have another question. How hot should I forge drawing out the billet? After welding it up.
I do two good welding heats and weld with mt press on flat dies.
After that I reduce thickness only about 1/16" per heat making sure my welds are good. After that I reduce my heat some and use normal forging temps.
I also forge down on my welds to create the ricasso and draw out the hidden tangs on my power hammer. I've never had a delamination.
Just don't be in a hurry to get to your final thickness. The more time spent at heat the more activity the transition zone has.
Karl B. Andersen
Journeyman Smith
|quoted:
I do two good welding heats and weld with mt press on flat dies.
After that I reduce thickness only about 1/16" per heat making sure my welds are good. After that I reduce my heat some and use normal forging temps.
I also forge down on my welds to create the ricasso and draw out the hidden tangs on my power hammer. I've never had a delamination.
Just don't be in a hurry to get to your final thickness. The more time spent at heat the more activity the transition zone has.
Thank you sir for the response. You have the best looking SS / San Mai in the game.
