Is your unit a "personalizer" style machine?

Home made?

Have you witnessed this machine work by others using the same technique?

Are your stencils relatively clean?

Is the ground clamp making good contact? (can you feel heat in the blade after the etch?)

This the kind of thing I would have to know more to be of any help.

I'm with Lin... need that information in order to help.

Something in your post caught my attention....

I've let it run from 5 minutes to 3 hours but it still doesn't accomplish a full, deep etch of all the letters.

That gives me the impression that you're placing the "pad" on the stencil and leaving it? If so, that just not the correct method to use. The etching pad should be "dabbed" on and off of the stencil. Every time the pad makes contact withe the stencil/blade, it creates gasses, that must be allowed to escape, otherwise the etcher just doesn't work.

I own/use a Personalizer Plus, which has both AC and DC, and adjustable current in either setting. The DC setting is what cuts depth, and during cutting the depth of the mark, atomized steel is "sucked" up by the etching pad (that's why the etching pad looks black/dirty when this step is done). On my machine, the current is generally set at 3-4 on the dial, depending on the size/thickness of the blade being etched. I place the pad (dampened with etch solution) on the stencil, count to 10, lift the pad to allow the gasses to escape, and repeat for a total of 8-10 times.

I then switch the machine to the AC setting (this will redeposit the atomized steel into the mark, and is what gives the black/dark color to the mark), with the current dial set at 4, I then repeat the steps I did with the DC setting..... pad on the stencil, count to 10, lift for a few seconds, then repeat for the total of 8-10 times.

Etching a mark on a blade is as much an art, as it is science. One thing I do that has made a huge difference for me.... once the stencil is taped down, I spritz it with windex.... it gives me a much cleaner looking mark, and keeps the edges of the letters from bleeding.

|quoted:

I'm with Lin... need that information in order to help.

Something in your post caught my attention....

That gives me the impression that you're placing the "pad" on the stencil and leaving it? If so, that just not the correct method to use. The etching pad should be "dabbed" on and off of the stencil. Every time the pad makes contact withe the stencil/blade, it creates gasses, that must be allowed to escape, otherwise the etcher just doesn't work.

I own/use a Personalizer Plus, which has both AC and DC, and adjustable current in either setting. The DC setting is what cuts depth, and during cutting the depth of the mark, atomized steel is "sucked" up by the etching pad (that's why the etching pad looks black/dirty when this step is done). On my machine, the current is generally set at 3-4 on the dial, depending on the size/thickness of the blade being etched. I place the pad (dampened with etch solution) on the stencil, count to 10, lift the pad to allow the gasses to escape, and repeat for a total of 8-10 times.

I then switch the machine to the AC setting (this will redeposit the atomized steel into the mark, and is what gives the black/dark color to the mark), with the current dial set at 4, I then repeat the steps I did with the DC setting..... pad on the stencil, count to 10, lift for a few seconds, then repeat for the total of 8-10 times.

Etching a mark on a blade is as much an art, as it is science. One thing I do that has made a huge difference for me.... once the stencil is taped down, I spritz it with windex.... it gives me a much cleaner looking mark, and keeps the edges of the letters from bleeding.

The unit I have is a $49 AC unit from lectroetch. The instructions indicate dabbing should be used as well but that seems to yield superficial results which is why I've tried longer contact periods. It sounds like I may need a DC unit. Thanks!

I've owned/used various levels of etchers over my career. It sounds like you have the same type/model I started out with, and I got the same results....just not good. I think I paid about $200 or so for the personalizer plus, but until I got it, at best, I had inconsistent results.

Personally, I think that both the AC/DC and the variable current is a must....it's the only etcher that I've ever been able to get good, consistent results with.

It took me a while, and some help from other Knifemakers, before I found the technique that works for me, but now it seems pretty easy.

All that being said, the stencils you use have a big impact too. My suggestion is Blue Lightening stencils.

|quoted:

I've owned/used various levels of etchers over my career. It sounds like you have the same type/model I started out with, and I got the same results....just not good. I think I paid about $200 or so for the personalizer plus, but until I got it, at best, I had inconsistent results.

Personally, I think that both the AC/DC and the variable current is a must....it's the only etcher that I've ever been able to get good, consistent results with.

It took me a while, and some help from other Knifemakers, before I found the technique that works for me, but now it seems pretty easy.

All that being said, the stencils you use have a big impact too. My suggestion is Blue Lightening stencils.

Thanks, Ed.

PS I'm lucky enough to own one of your beautiful knives

I do 20 four second cycles. Ed does 8 ten second cycles. Same amount of time! But the key point is letting built-up gases escape.