I use a Foredom Rotary Tool. I have a standard, and small hand tool for it. Works pretty good for me. I also have a battery Dremel hand tool, it works (ed) pretty well for me before I got the Foredom.

I've been shaping my handle and guard at the same time so I've just been using a small (3/4") wheel to radius the guard.

Joey I use the small wheel on my grinder for the radius. A 3/4' small wheel. That is for roughing in. After I use a foredom tool with 1/2' and 1/4' sanding drums. A variable speed dremel will work also. You can use a small half round file also.

Brion

I took a bit of advice from Karl Anderson and have started to sculpt that curve and the handle material at the same time with files and rasps. It is a little slower, but much more controlled. Once you get the hang of it, it goes pretty fast and you very rarely, if ever, find yourself saying "Oh shoot!" because your hand slipped and you accidently ground off a piece you couldn't see at the grinder. Or something hit the belt on the bottom of the wheel while you weren't looking.

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What is the rotary tool of choice for getting the nice clean radius on the handle side of the guard, where the finger rides?

Foredom, absolutely one of the most used tools in my shop. I can't believe I was able to do it with a Dremmel years ago. For around, or less than, $200 the Foredom is one of the best bangs for your buck investments there is, mine gets used every day and has worked flawlessly from most of my career.

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I took a bit of advice from Karl Anderson and have started to sculpt that curve and the handle material at the same time with files and rasps.

My process has evolved a bit since then.

I shape my guards off the knife with small wheels and slack belts. Nearly to full completion right off the bat and then shape the handle TO the guard with files.

Nearly all my guards are now shaped like that.

I do it pretty much like Karl, but do the fine tuning with Crossing files. They come in course, medium and fine. The fine leaves a 120 grit finish, so once it's tuned in, I can go to 220 on the guard and handle.

Bob

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My process has evolved a bit since then.

I shape my guards off the knife with small wheels and slack belts. Nearly to full completion right off the bat and then shape the handle TO the guard with files.

Nearly all my guards are now shaped like that.

This is the way I do all my frame handles, and any knife with a flat guard, except in reverse order. I shape the handle and spacer package off the knife to 100% done (except buffing) and then make the guard to fit the handle. This allows me to get almost perfect symmetry in the handle and transfer it to the guard.

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This is the way I do all my frame handles, and any knife with a flat guard, except in reverse order. I shape the handle and spacer package off the knife to 100% done (except buffing) and then make the guard to fit the handle. This allows me to get almost perfect symmetry in the handle and transfer it to the guard.

Like Karl said but I also shape the handle to 400 at the grinder.

I just realized I don't even have a decent file anymore.

While I think that method does work well, it's not my preferred way because I dislike that sharp angle where the wood of the handle meets the metal of the guard. I prefer much more radius and curve at that transition point. Using the small wheel on the grinder to do both pieces simultaneously works well but I find the control is problematic. This is the look and feel I prefer. That's just my opinion.

Lots of good info here guys! Thanks so much. I do have a Foredom rotary tool. Just need to get some smaller radius wheels.

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While I think that method does work well, it's not my preferred way because I dislike that sharp angle where the wood of the handle meets the metal of the guard. I prefer much more radius and curve at that transition point. Using the small wheel on the grinder to do both pieces simultaneously works well but I find the control is problematic. This is the look and feel I prefer. That's just my opinion.

I do like the smooth continuous radius you get with your technique! Thanks!