so ya do you use any form of masking tape in any of the blade-making posses? I used to use it to protect any etching I did well putting the handle on a blade. Now I exclusively use it when I am drilling the holes into my handle material via tapping the stuff to the blade. Im using TAMIYA 18mm Masking Tape right now since i had some around for when I panted models. Its expensive as its imported. However, i was not using it much for painting as i tend to use a mix of brush work and airbrushing when i pant my models, I had run out of Scotch blue and it was just laying around.
I would be curious to know what everyone else uses. But Super glue as a tool for temporary attachments work really well. And i only use tape to keep the blade from getting scuffed and mostly needlessly drops of epoxy on during glue up. Thats done with electrical tape because it shears easily (use the knife to cut its own black sheath off of it) That blue masking tape i used to use a lot of, but it gets expensive after a while.
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I would be curious to know what everyone else uses. But Super glue as a tool for temporary attachments work really well. And i only use tape to keep the blade from getting scuffed and mostly needlessly drops of epoxy on during glue up. Thats done with electrical tape because it shears easily (use the knife to cut its own black sheath off of it) That blue masking tape i used to use a lot of, but it gets expensive after a while.
I use lots of the blue masking tape and electrical tape to protect the blade from scratches when I'm working on the handle, glue ups, etc. But I am paranoid about the tape reacting on the carbon blade. So I wrap the blade in paper towel first, then wrap that in masking or electrical tape.
Also, blue masking tape is my go to bandage for minor cuts, electrical tape for bigger cuts. Duct tape is reserved for the major trauma kit. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//wink.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' />
Blue painter's tape is one of my routine tools. I use it to protect the blade after I finish it and during the guard and handle work. I use it to protect the handle when I buff domed pins. Or for anything at all when things come up.
Lin said it. I do exactly the same. A must have in my shop.
Brion
Brion Tomberlin
Anvil Top Custom Knives
ABS Mastersmith
Every time I use tape on any steel part it pits it.
And I have to go back to hand sanding or the grinder.
Any suggestions on stopping this?
I live on a tidal plain so the air is pretty salty.
JJ, I leave the tape on as little as possible. I do what I need to do and take it off then re oil the blade. The blue painters tape works best and leaves very little residue. Some other masking tapes seem to have something in the adhesive that will pit the blade if you leave it on a while. One option is to oil the blade, wrap it in paper towels, then wrap in masking tape.
Brion
Brion Tomberlin
Anvil Top Custom Knives
ABS Mastersmith
I shoot the blade with Wd 40 then use the blue tape on top of that. It doesn't stick well, but it keeps the rust down. I haven't had issues with electrical tape either. Some of the regular tan masking tapes rust worse. Leaving the tape on more than overnight rusts worse. Any water, like from dipping the tang from grinding shoulders or whatever, gets under the tape and rusts worse.
The only time I put tape directly on the blade is to protect it when sharpening. When I use finer stones that require water, I add a bunch of baking soda to the water. Then I remove the tape, clean and dry the blade immediately after I'm done sharpening. If a larger blade is taking me a long time to sharpen, I'll actually remove the tape, clean, dry, and retape before I'm finished sharpening.
I use grey electrical tape. doesn't have as much sticky residue as the black tape plus I can write notes on the tape with a sharpy
