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Cold Blue Treatments

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Posts: 296
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I got the feeling this is a question that should be asked after reading Ty Adams post as it seems that some people consider cold blue products to be some something like paint, however as I understand it from reading the information provided with the Birchwood Casey Perma Blue Liquid Gun Blue Finishing kit I bought and from using it, that it works more like and historically was used as a form of etchant. I am also drawing on knowledged gleaned from MS Kyle Royers youtube videos were he does hot bluing that chemical blueing is a way to get a blue oxide treatment without heating the blade to 575F and that after neutralizing and cleaning of the solution on a blued item no residue will be left on the blade, and you would know because the residue would cause rust spots to appear the next day days time which I have had happen when using a blacking solution. so I am wondering which is the correct interpretation of how blueing products.

 
Posted : 24/04/2020 2:47 pm
Joshua States
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Kevin, this is my understanding of steel bluing.

Bluing processes (hot, cold, rust, etc.) are forms of oxidation. This is a chemical reaction with the iron on the surface of the steel.

This causes the surface iron in the steel to develop an oxide layer that may, or may not be resistant to that nasty form of oxidation we all try to avoid, called rust. Some of the common black oxide treatments (Caswell's black oxide is a commonly used product) also cause a chemical reaction that produce a darkening of the surface. All of these "etch" the steel to a certain degree, some more than others (rust bluing etches the surface quite a bit more than cold or hot blue) and they all change the color of the surface.

For more information on how the different types of bluing and how they work, try the Wikipedia site: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluing_(steel)

Joshua States

www.dosgatosforge.com

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdJMFMqnbLYqv965xd64vYg

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Also on Instagram and Facebook as J.States Bladesmith

“So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.”

 
Posted : 24/04/2020 6:15 pm
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Joshua States thanks for the explanation its similar to how i understand it... I never thought to check Wikipedia about blueing will be after I post this. I'm getting some interesting ideas reading this...i need to buy a dedicated stew pot as i ant going to be doing any boiling in a pot that is for food.

 
Posted : 25/04/2020 12:23 pm
Joshua States
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I seriously considered going the hot blue path. After looking into it and seeing what it took, and how much space I would need to allocate to doing it properly, I decided that the results I get with cold blue is good enough for now. Both of these have Birchwood Casey cold blue applied at approximately 200*F

Joshua States

www.dosgatosforge.com

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdJMFMqnbLYqv965xd64vYg

https://www.facebook.com/dos.gatos.71

Also on Instagram and Facebook as J.States Bladesmith

“So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.”

 
Posted : 25/04/2020 4:04 pm
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It's rust blueing that's got my attention.

 
Posted : 26/04/2020 7:21 pm
Karl B. Andersen
Posts: 1067
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See if this helps:

[media] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AX6E_K_DMxg [/media]

Karl B. Andersen

Journeyman Smith

 
Posted : 26/04/2020 7:50 pm
Joshua States
Posts: 1157
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|quoted:

It's rust blueing that's got my attention.

I have had very limited success with rust bluing and it was totally useless on mild steel. What I can tell you about it, is that it pits the steel extensively. This is a forced rusting that eats into the steel in an uneven way. Some folks like the texture. I know a knife maker named Wes Detrick who uses this method quite frequently with great coloration and durability. If you want his recipe, I will find it and forward it in a PM. If you try it, remember you need an aluminum pot or a ceramic crock pot.

Joshua States

www.dosgatosforge.com

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdJMFMqnbLYqv965xd64vYg

https://www.facebook.com/dos.gatos.71

Also on Instagram and Facebook as J.States Bladesmith

“So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.”

 
Posted : 26/04/2020 9:09 pm
Posts: 296
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Topic starter
 

Figured I would use a cheap stainless steel pot as I have a gas stove and I have turn steel orange using it. there are also a few things I want to try with rust blueing one is seeing if I can get a richer black or blue color on a cold blued blade as I have had a Birchwood Casey cold blue kit for some time however I just have not used it much so far...also you solved my issue with making brute de forge as I do not make deep enough hammer marks with my style of forging. Karl B. Andersen: thank you, Ill check out the video in the morning as I am just getting ready to turn in for the night.

 
Posted : 26/04/2020 11:03 pm
Posts: 22
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|quoted:

See if this helps:

[media] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AX6E_K_DMxg [/media]

Thanks for the video Karl.

 
Posted : 27/04/2020 6:19 am
Posts: 296
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Topic starter
 

|quoted:

See if this helps:

[media] http://www.youtube.c...h?v=AX6E_K_DMxg [/media]

thank you I enjoyed the video a lot too. you got me interested in hot blueing using salts in the future.

 
Posted : 28/04/2020 7:41 pm
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