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Welding With Induction Heater

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Posts: 81
Estimable Member Journeyman Bladesmith (5yr)
Topic starter
 

Has any one forge welded using induction heater? If so would like some help, wondering about flux, billet size ect. Thanks Landon

 
Posted : 14/09/2013 8:10 pm
Joshua States
Posts: 1157
Member
 

Good question. Too bad I don't know what you are talking about..... <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//blink.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':blink:' />

You have piqued my interest though, so do me a favor and raise me up and out of ignoranace. What exactly is induction heat welding?

Joshua States

www.dosgatosforge.com

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdJMFMqnbLYqv965xd64vYg

https://www.facebook.com/dos.gatos.71

Also on Instagram and Facebook as J.States Bladesmith

“So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.”

 
Posted : 14/09/2013 10:07 pm
Matthew Parkinson
Posts: 546
Honorable Member Journeyman Bladesmith (5yr)
 

I haven't had any luck welding billets in my induction but it works great for welding things like welding the eye of hawks or steeling the edge. I have found that the key is to turn the unit down use a bit of Kawool to insulate the coils (inside the coils) and protect from shorting the coils. I then heat to welding temp wire brush and reflux let cool to dull orange and reheat to welding temp them weld as normal. the tough thing with welding in the induction is it is possible to be less that 1000deg at the core of a large piece but have the surface at almost liquid, you must be sure that the core of the weld is up to temp that is way it is so important to turn in down, on large pieces I will sometimes pause the heating for a few seconds during heating to let the temp even out a bit.

MP

 
Posted : 15/09/2013 7:20 am
Posts: 81
Estimable Member Journeyman Bladesmith (5yr)
Topic starter
 

Josh, induction heating also called resistance heating, is the process of heating by using electromagnetic field, eddy currents are created in the steel and the resistance leads to joule heating. I use mine to straiten blades after forging if needed, that way I can shut down the forge and save on gas. Matt, thanks for the info i had not tryed to weld with it yet, but was courious if it could be done you just saved me some time on the learning curve. thanks Landon

 
Posted : 15/09/2013 11:10 am
Joshua States
Posts: 1157
Member
 

Does anyone have any photos of this process? Has anyone tried welding the bolsters to a frame or bolsters to the liners on a folder?

Joshua States

www.dosgatosforge.com

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdJMFMqnbLYqv965xd64vYg

https://www.facebook.com/dos.gatos.71

Also on Instagram and Facebook as J.States Bladesmith

“So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.”

 
Posted : 16/09/2013 10:58 pm
Posts: 81
Estimable Member Journeyman Bladesmith (5yr)
Topic starter
 

Josh, You can find several videos on YouTube showing induction forging, and induction heating. Im not shure about puting bolsters on liners using this prosses.

 
Posted : 17/09/2013 8:02 am
Matthew Parkinson
Posts: 546
Honorable Member Journeyman Bladesmith (5yr)
 

I would think that using a resistance style spot welding unit would work better for bolsters, or you could braze them on with an induction unit brazing joint like that is one of the things they are commonly used for in industry.

MP

 
Posted : 19/09/2013 6:53 am
Joshua States
Posts: 1157
Member
 

|quoted:

I would think that using a resistance style spot welding unit would work better for bolsters, or you could braze them on with an induction unit brazing joint like that is one of the things they are commonly used for in industry.

MP

I have tried the spot welder (saw that in a book thanks to Frank Centafante) with NiSi bolsters and liners. The only problem I have with that is the accidental burning of the liner which then needs to be filled with silver solder. I don't much care for brazing the bolsters on my folders because no matter how hard I try, that solder line is always visible, and that bugs me. I have milled the bolster/liner from a single piece of flat stock (thanks to Wayne Clay for that method)and that seems to be the best way so far, but it wastes a lot of material. I haven't tried this with damascus yet, preferring to let the damascus be the entire side of the folder. No scales, no bolsters, just a slab of steel. It was too heavy for my liking.

Joshua States

www.dosgatosforge.com

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdJMFMqnbLYqv965xd64vYg

https://www.facebook.com/dos.gatos.71

Also on Instagram and Facebook as J.States Bladesmith

“So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.”

 
Posted : 24/09/2013 10:07 pm
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