I have been making Damascus - a while. I have always used, and still use, Mule.

Weld failures are seldom the result of materials. Weld failures are ALMOST always completely human error.

There is a lot more to successful welds than steel type and flux.

Keep using your Mule and just get more consistent with your process.

Jerrin,

Keep in mind that forge welding is mostly heat control and that a press welds from the inside out while a hammer welds from the outside in.

Also a good habit to get into is to do an initial weld with light, fast squeezes then reheat and weld again with more substantial squeezes.

I do mostly fluxless welding these days, but when I used flux, I used this: https://www.knifeandgun.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=FWF

I still use it from time to time and have never had a failure, whether I used the press or the power hammer. I would check your press dies for flatness and consistent contact across the faces in all directions. It sounds like they may have worn down a bit and aren't pressing that edge in the first pass or two. This would allow that borax to get in the space and cause a weld flaw.

I used 20 Mule Team for a long time and never had a problem except for the mess. The past half dozen billets made I started using kerosene and there is no mess. For each weld I start cold with a well cleaned (ground) billet cut, stacked and tacked then as the forge comes up to heat it soaks in a paint can of kerosene. If you are using a press to set the weld do light squeezes not big mashes at least for the first set. I mostly use a power hammer to set the weld before pressing. Find a method you can repeat that works and stick with it.

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I used 20 Mule Team for a long time and never had a problem except for the mess. The past half dozen billets made I started using kerosene and there is no mess. For each weld I start cold with a well cleaned (ground) billet cut, stacked and tacked then as the forge comes up to heat it soaks in a paint can of kerosene. If you are using a press to set the weld do light squeezes not big mashes at least for the first set. I mostly use a power hammer to set the weld before pressing. Find a method you can repeat that works and stick with it.

I wanted to try the kerosene, but it's not terribly easy to find. Then someone (maybe Mike Q?) told me to use diesel fuel. So now I have a 5-gallon bucket of #2 diesel from the local Shell station. After I get done tacking the billet ends and welding the billet to the handle, I put the billet in the diesel while it is still warm from the welding. It sits in the diesel long enough for me to light the forge and get the press set up. Then it goes directly into the forge. My first three welding passes are full length and full width (6"x2") It doesn't compress very much at all with that much surface area. After three welding presses, I start with 1/8 inch compressions on a 2x2 area overlapping presses by about 1/4". Alternate the billet top and bottom between heats. I get about 4 compressions per heat. After 2 or 3 rounds per side, it's pretty well fused and ready for drawing/patterning/etc.

A quick note about the diesel fuel: Only use the kind at the local gas station for autos and light trucks. Do not use what is referred to as Agricultural diesel fuel. That has some sort of dye in it that will bugger the weld every time.

Thanks everyone! You have have been reasuring!

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I wanted to try the kerosene, but it's not terribly easy to find.

Some of the hardware stores in my area carry it, both in can and a tank outside for refills.

While Twenty mule team works just as good, I use anhydrous borax because it tidier. Without the ten water molecules, it doesn't puff up.

Only a single mention of Anhydrous Borax?? Been using that for years. I find it far superior to 20 mule team. It's really just plain borax with the moisture removed. You can find it at either ceramic supply stores, or mining supply stores. I buy it in 100lb bags....and that much usually last me a 2-3 years.