What I'm referring to as "irregular" is starting with varied thicknesses on the original billet. This is a technique first shown me by Ray Kirk and one that I've often used since.
For this particular billet I started with:
a= 1/8" 1084
b= .065 15N20
a-b-a-b-a-bb-aaa-bb-a-b-a-b-a-bb-aaa-bb-a-b-a-b-a-b-a
Here's the "W" billet at 50 x 16:
And the finished blade:
Giving the original billet the varied thicknesses gives you a very different result and one that I think that you'll find worthwhile.
Thanks Ray Kirk!
Gary
Gary
Very nice, and thanks. And a thanks to Ray as well.
Anthony Griggs
I like that technique. You can also add layers in the second or third stack.
Gary, could you describe your "tile cut" welding method?
Joshua States
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|quoted:
Gary, could you describe your "tile cut" welding method?
Once the billet is ground smooth on the two opposing sides that will be mated for the welds, I cut the tiles from the billet at approximately a 45 degree angle and 3/4" apart. The angle isn't as important as cutting them parallel (35 or 40 degrees will work). This is done so that the cut is across the "W" layers (the original layers being vertically oriented). This keeps the "W" pattern going up & down on the blade. If you cut the tiles the other way then the "W" pattern will go lengthwise on the blade instead. If this is hard to visualize then sand & etch one end of the billet before cutting the tiles to orient them the way that you want.
To hold the tiles together until I can get them tack welded on two sides, I usually Super Glue them.
After attaching a handle, I usually will heat the billet to welding temp and hammer the tiles a total of three times to insure good welds. When doing this it's usually a good idea to leave the billet a little too thick just in case you need to surface grind the billet slightly to remove any imperfections or black lines on the edges of the tile welds. [Once you're satisfied that the billet is completely welded solid then the spot welds from the MIG will need to be ground off the two sides so they don't impair the pattern.]
I hope that this all makes sense. If not, then PM me and I'll try to clear it up.
Gary
Thanks for the info.Like the outcome.
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I like that technique. You can also add layers in the second or third stack.
Thanks, Lin. Here's one that I added layers to the stack. I like the effect that it gives you.
Gary
