Bubba, I have a question for you. If you are going to go through all of that work, why not add a frame as a design element? You would just save the final glue-up until all the shaping is done.

See this thread for an example: http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/index.php?/topic/3451-simple-damascus-edc/

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Bubba, I have a question for you. If you are going to go through all of that work, why not add a frame as a design element? You would just save the final glue-up until all the shaping is done.

See this thread for an example: http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/index.php?/topic/3451-simple-damascus-edc/

Hello Joshua, Mainly because everyone I’ve talked to says to keep the presentation knives as simple as possibly but CLEAN and clean they say numerous times, I’ve talked to a mastersmith via email now since I posted this and have been told that it will be fine as long as it’s executed cleanly, which puts my mind at ease, I do all my hidden tangs this way, I’ve done a frame handle also but for my 5 JS knives I will keep it as simplistically clean as possible. Ive read where the judges say numerous numerous times not to show out on JS test knives cause everything you do to one will be judged accordingly, simple and clean is what they want.

Bubba, Many user mortise tang handles.

Bob

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Bubba, Many user mortise tang handles.

Bob

Thank you Mr. Wright! I plan on doing them myself, maybe one solid block but most will be mortised scales.

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Hello Joshua, Mainly because everyone I’ve talked to says to keep the presentation knives as simple as possibly but CLEAN and clean they say numerous times, I’ve talked to a mastersmith via email now since I posted this and have been told that it will be fine as long as it’s executed cleanly, which puts my mind at ease, I do all my hidden tangs this way, I’ve done a frame handle also but for my 5 JS knives I will keep it as simplistically clean as possible. Ive read where the judges say numerous numerous times not to show out on JS test knives cause everything you do to one will be judged accordingly, simple and clean is what they want.

Forgive me if I was unclear. I wasn't suggesting the frame would have the filework and pimping. It could still be very plain and clean with a thin piece of SS, NS or even some vulcanized paper to add a splash of color. You could even insert it and glue up before shaping in your typical manner. I was only suggesting that if there is going to be a visible seam, why not replace it with another element so it isn't a "seam" anymore?

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Forgive me if I was unclear. I wasn't suggesting the frame would have the filework and pimping. It could still be very plain and clean with a thin piece of SS, NS or even some vulcanized paper to add a splash of color. You could even insert it and glue up before shaping in your typical manner. I was only suggesting that if there is going to be a visible seam, why not replace it with another element so it isn't a "seam" anymore?

I understood, I would just rather do something simple and that I’m very familiar with if it’s acceptable, now knowing it is acceptable to be able to tell it’s a set of scales puts my mind at ease, there are a few kinds of wood that the seam nearly disappears when finished so I’ll probably get my wood guy to get me 7-8 sets to use. I’m working on a skinner I’m putting ringed gidgee on and the seam is basically nonexistent, I do appreciate your input and thoughts.

Bubba- recently I have personally started using acraglass per Bill Burke, with it they sell a black and brown dye..........to go along with that I have also started playing with oil base pints from hobby lobby mixed in with epoxy to match my surfaces, just requires more hardener to compensate

Personally I used T88, then G Flex, now settled into the acraglass. Artisan brand oil paint mixes well with it, and a 5.00 tube can last a guy a life time.