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Domed pins on J.S examination knives.

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Liam Walle
Posts: 5
Active Member Apprentice Bladesmith (5yr)
Topic starter
 
I've been improving my pin doming skills lately and am happy visually with how they are. However, how close to the wood does the pin need to be? People have said they shouldn't catch cloth, which they definitely don't, but it is possible to slightly catch the underside with a thumbnail if you try. I have been able to somewhat fix this but it has led to other problems with minor dents and scratches in the wood and pin. The gap between the pin and the wood is not large at all. probably only 2-4 thousandths of an inch and isn't visually too noticeable. I'll attach a link to an instagram reel with an example. I know complex processes are unadvisable on JS test knives but if they fail me I'll be okay with that. Also I'd like to know how good domed pins need to be in future. (I've been using 2mm nickel silver pins and 'mushrooming' the heads with a hand made pair of punches)
Thank you very much,
Liam Walle
 
Posted : 08/01/2024 6:03 pm
Joshua C States
Posts: 334
Reputable Member Journeyman Bladesmith (5yr)
 

That's a good looking knife.
Every one of the 5 knives in my JS set had handle pins. Some were domed, others were ground flat, some were peened flat, but raised. If you are going to peen the pin heads at all, you need to protect the wood from errant marks and dents from the punches used to peen the pin head. I use small pieces of acetate sheet (basically transparency sheets) with a small hole made with a leather punch.

There are a few videos out there on this technique. I think the one from Nick Wheeler is still on the ABS youtube channel. My video is on my YT channel and is based on Nick's process. You can find that one here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBRDYNQ8prY&t=3s

On your IG post you mentioned in a reply comment something about gaps in the fit with the spacer. Was this between the spacer/guard or the spacer/wood fit? most times I find these gaps are caused by unparallel surfaces causing the spacer to rock when the whole package is assembled. I finish all mating surfaces to 220 grit on a granite slab and I use a surface grinder or the mini mill to get parallel sides on the guard and spacers. Then it's just a matter of getting the handle mating surface to sit flat against the spacer in the final fit up. That can be achieved a couple of ways.

I like your work. 

“So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.”

 
Posted : 09/01/2024 6:55 am
Liam Walle
Posts: 5
Active Member Apprentice Bladesmith (5yr)
Topic starter
 

Thank you for the advice, I'll look into some acetate sheets! I have been peening the pins on a few just without the cover, hence a few slips. The knife in the reel did have fairly good fit-up at one point (I used a mill to get mating surfaces flat). The only thing is the spacer was a little loose on the tang and the handle was a little tight on the lineup pins and during assembly and disassembly after rough grinding the spacer went flying across a room onto concrete, and being nickel silver that didn't go ideally. Not a mistake I plan to repeat and I did try an salvage it with some sandpaper but clearly not enough.

Thanks again!

 
Posted : 09/01/2024 8:34 am
Posts: 44
Trusted Member Apprentice Bladesmith
 

That's a good looking Knife Liam, nice and clean!  

Joshua - Great advice on doming the pins and getting everything flat.  Thanks for sharing the video! 👍 

 
Posted : 09/01/2024 2:26 pm
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